Isle Of Wight

We cruise gently down Southampton Water leaving the noise and bustle of the city behind.  The fast ferry zips by, rushing to the island in half the time, but we have the time to indulge in a cooked breakfast as the refinery at Fawley passes the window.  Top tip - head straight for the cafe as soon as you board, as a queue forms.

After an hour we come to land at Cowes, at the mouth of the river Medina.  Its surprisingly industrialised here, but on a small friendly scale with places like the boatyard painted here (oil on board 16x12 inches, 2020 (X)).

At low tide the beach stretches out beyond the pier, so you can actually watch the hovercraft as they are still going at some speed at close hand.

At low high the beach retracts to the shore. The families that were playing in the shallow pools are forced to just a narrow band until the tide turns again. And around here that take time, for the double high tide of this region means that the tide only retreats shortly before low tide.

As you walked along the beach did you spot the folly? It should have been pretty obvious - especially if its the day of 'Shipwreck Isle', the pirate festival. I went several years ago and found myself drinking tequila, surrounded by a couple of dozen Jack Sparrows - none the original I might add.

Anyway, here's a painting of it from the woods, and without the pirates.

The best way on from Ryde I've found is to follow the coast, past the folly where the pirate festival was held, and round several bays, each quieter than the last.  You eventually pass some rocks and enter a bay with no buildings bar these two shacks, and if you time it right, no people too.

This is Priory Bay - named after the priory that sits behind the woods you see.  In the background you may just catch a glimpse of Portsmouth and the spike of the Spinnaker Tower. (oil on board 16x12 inches, 2017)

Our route takes us along Bembridge harbour, but sadly the distinctively decorated moored houseboats have all been replaced with modern carbuncles.  At the far end the characterful cafe on the beach has also been modernised, but its still worth a stop if only for the location. Climb up to Bembridge village, then past the windmill.  Next the airfield (with its Propeller Inn an alternative refreshment stop), and a climb over the hill to the seaside resorts of Sandown and Shanklin.

The pier at Sandown is well worth a visit.  Walking through its corridor is like a trip into the past.  Its split into sections, and the most evocative is perhaps the cafe I've painted here (oil on board, 8x8 inches, 2018). though sadly even that has lost a little of its charm now.

The beach continue on to busy Shanklin, and then peters out into a rougher shoreline round about at this groyne.  Its a good spot for a view, as you can make out Shanklin Chine as a green belt with a building half way down the cliff.  But don't look too close as its not possible to get much detail at this scale!

We need to get off the beach now, for a path through the woods.

Its downhill for a while now, followed by the long and straight military road that follows the coast.  The official cycle route goes inland a bit here, but with a tail wind this is too good to miss.  For those cycling the island there is a stiff climb at the end which is getting perilously close to the cliff edge, but nevermind, there is icecream to be had in Freshwater Bay, and a chance to paddle on the shingle beach.

If the tide is out (as here) you get colourful rockpools in front of the big lump of chalk guarding the bay.  And just to the left of these you can walk round to some caves.  But do take care, its chalk worn smooth by the sea, and its wet.  And there is nothing more slippery than wet chalk - as I suddenly remember when I slipped straight into a rock pool, filling my boots with seawater.

With extra time to dry off those boots (well I did warn you the chalk was slippery), and sample another ice cream (all money going to the RNLI), we finally get under way.

We are on foot now, for the climb up Tennyson Down.  Looking back we get this view of the cliffs stretching back to St Catherine point, except that the path has all but gone now due to erosion, and we are on a safer path a little further from the edge.  Ahead, just a lush carpet of grass, wildflowers, blue butterflies and near silence.

Its a long walk along the ridge - it takes me about an hour to reach the far end. But there we come to a little hidden spot - a place where rockets were tested when Britain was in the Space Race. You can freely walk around at present, and even enjoy a vertiginous view from the end of the cliff. A few signs have recently appeared, and there is a small cafe and visitor centre round the corner. I suspect one day we'll have to pay to see this.

Around the corner we come to the official tourist sites with a huge car park and a thousand ways to empty your wallet. So lets skip that and head down the road to a path up Headon Warren. Lets head on over the top surrounded by flowering heather and a restored calmness.

Our walk reaches a road, but then descends quickly to the promenade around Totland Bay. With the mainland fort of Hurst castle in the background and a shallow sea before us there is a mediteranean feel. but all too soon we are pushed inland, and don't emerge until we reach the quaint village of Yarmouth. The best view is from the ferry, but we are not yet ready to leave the island.

We leave Yarmouth heading East.  At first its along the shore, but we get pushed onto the road, and then various tracks across soft mud cliffs, and then gravel tracks past unseen houses.  When we reach the shore again its on a shingle beach called Hamstead Duver.  And there the view suddenly opens to reveal the Newtown River - a flooded system of creeks offering a sheltered and scenic place to sail.

From the last spot there is a path that winds around the creek, before getting back on those gravel tracks we hate.  They take us to a busy road, where we can either jump on a bus to Newport, or turn off again (at Shalfleet) to visit Newtown itself. From there its a lot of road walking to the shore near Gurnard and back to Cowes.

We've now followed the coast right rounds, but neglected the centre. You can walk along the river Medina for that, or just jump on the bus.  There are shops and lots of bustle, but you can escape that if you head to Carisbrooke. And close to there I found this green lane on the Shepherd's Trail.

From Newport, back to Cowes, we just have time for a wander along the shore, past all the little shops and the little brass canons of the Royal Yacht Squadron. We come to a promenade with a low wall and stone lions guarding the beach.  Beyond that lies Gurnard, and a walk along a wilder section of shore before we emerge at The Luck.  To go any further we are detoured inland.  So this is a good spot to admire the jumble of boats at low tide, before turning back to Cowes.  And this is where we say goodbye to the island.