Scottish Highlands

...and don't be too tempted by the bar, as did I mention that we are disembarking early at Kingussie?  Hurry down that breakfast and get packed for we'll be there in just a few minutes.  Why Kingussie?  Well its a very nice way to reach the Cairngorms .  Click or tap to explore these mountain plateaus, deep U shaped valleys, braided rivers and all those other things they taught you in geography.

It may be a while before the Cairngorm party returns, so whilst they are gone we head along the road to Newtonmore.  Leaving the North side of the village an unassuming road leads through a wood to a beautiful stretch of open country surrounded by the modest peaks of the Monadhliath.  Just as we reach the foot of the nearest one a blizzard sweeps in.  We retreat, but it quickly stops, having turned the landscape into a winter wonderland in just a few minutes.  With more snow due, we return to the village and opt for a cafe and numerous cups of tea.  Only later do we find we are expected to use the loos across the road, but they are all locked up for the winter.  Just remember not to eat the yellow snow!

When we all meet up again, its in Inverness, taking a look at the replica Pictish stones in the museum.  If you want to see a real one, then hop on a bus to Strathpeffer - once a grand Victorian spa town. Tucked away up a grassy path you'll find the Eagle stone guarding the glen against misfortune.  Its hard to make out the inscription, but if you look from the side its more apparent.  And whilst you are there, try a nice little walk along the ridge of Cnoc Mor.  On a frosty day it looks surprisingly grand.

The rest of us board the Wick train, and pass by the ridge wishing we'd taken time out to visit.  But for us its further North we go, passing the station used in the Harry Potter films before alighting at Helmsdale.

Its a small settlement, and we easily reach its edge with a view up into the emptiness of the flow country.  Its very tempting to walk off into the wilderness, for this is the emptiest quarter of the country, with sweeping views to odd little crags that erupt across the skyline.

Another trip out, and this time to the North coast on a summer bus service that takes several hours to reach Durness.  We are tempted to jump off an Ullapool - a piece of regimented civilisation (layed out on a grid pattern), surrounded by wild lands.  We are also tempted by Lochinver - a gentle village, again in the middlke of wild terrain.  and then there is Kinlochbervie for a walk to the remote and stunning Sandwood Bay.  But for us, we stay all the way to Smoo.

The river disappears down a hole beside the road here, and its worth seeing why.  Down the steps to a narrow inlet and we come to Smoo Cave - the largest sea cave in Britain, and not far inside there is a gushing waterfall.

Unless you want to stay the night, and explore Faraid Head, or sit on a freezing North Coast beach, I suggest we all get back to the bus for the return trip to Inverness now.

Another trip and this time heading West on the train to Kyle. Stop off at Achnashellach and there are some great mountain walks - like this one.  Its a very steep climb onto the ridge, but our reward is this stunning panorama.  From there its an easy walk except for finding a way down to the col and a quick scramble up the return ridge just as a jet fighter zips past beneath us.  The return ridge is just a gentle slope, but at the end have we the energy to find a way up the imposing outlier of Fuar Tholl?

Its September and its race day when we reach Fort William.  Everyone is heading for 'the ben'.  If you want a good view with minimal effort, head up Cow hill with binocculars.  To get the atmosphere though, join the throng of people heading for the summit.  There is plenty of space up there - so much so that with 200 people around I still got a picture of just the race official and his radio perched by the summit shelter (as painted here).  Okay there was another person in the view, but the paintbrush ignored him!

So why the crowds? Its the annual race up the Ben - the 'grand national' of fell running.  The leaders are up and hurtling down the boulder slope in an hour and half with rocks flying everywhere and a high risk of broken bones.  Behind them the also rans are having a much tougher time as they struggle to the summit.

If you aren't one for crowds try an ascent in the Spring.  One of the finest routes up Ben Nevis is via Carn Mor Dearg and its Arete - a two mile long narrow ridge between the two peaks.  On the way up you get impressive views of the rocky East face of the Ben, and of the ridge of Carn Mor Dearg looking far more dramatic than it is.  Here's the approach to the summit from an Easter trip I did.

A couple of ranges to the South (the wonderful ridge of the Mammores and the scary ridge of the Aonach Eagach), and we find ourselves in Glencoe.  The village sits close to the shore at the end of the glen, and from there we have the choice of two routes. Most of the traffic takes the main road through the glen, but come with me along the back road and let me show you a fantastic view that few get to see.  And if that is not enough, we then come to the Chlachaid Inn - a well know highland hostelry. It would be rude not to...

Time to head South now, but not straight back just yet.  Lets stop off about half way to Glasgow at Crianlarich and explore the mountains here.  Walk a mile down the busy road and we can break out up Twistin Hill to An Caisteal (the castle), following an enjoyable twisting path along the ridge.  We are back in Spring time, so there are patches of snow and ice on the summit, and an atmospheric view across Rannoch Moor to the snow capped peaks of Ben Lui and Ben Oss.  Its lit by a patch of sunlight between the clouds which we are now so close to that they brush the summit from time to time.  The four peaks there are an even better walk, but you'll have to wait for me to paint another picture.

OK so I've got your interest mentioning the four peaks in the Ben Lui range.  You are going to love this walk.  We start off from Tyndrum Lower station (one stop up from Crianlarich), crossing the track to the forestry road.  After a while we turn the corner and leave the trees behind, and there in front of us is the most perfect example of a mountain.  There are twin peaks sitting astride an imposing quarry.  Our route takes us off the path near to the old gold mine, over a fence and up the side of Beinn Dhubcraig.  Its a trudge to the summit, but from there we follow the ridge round to Ben Oss, and finally up Ben Lui.  We could go on to the fourth peak, but instead decide to follow the valley back out with the view behind us.