South West
After a drink in the onboard lounge we retire to our bunks for the night, waking up just in time to disembark at St Erth. A connecting train trundles round several sandy bays to arrive at St Ives. Click or tap St Ives for a day or two exploring this delightful Cornish seaside town.
We leave St Ives on a summer only bus that weaves its way along the coast to Lands End and round to Penzance, passing through rugged moorlands filled with ankle scratching dwarf gorse.
Having heard the reputation of Lands end and its tourist trappings we get off at St Just instead, for the short walk to Cape Cornwall - a place that very much feels like the end of the land. Its on its own peninsula and marked with a pillar as if to be pinning down the end of the country to stop it curling up. Nearby along the coast there are remains of tin mines and the lighthouse at Pendeen Watch. There is a swell on, and gigantic waves are pounding the rocks, shaking the ground. The rumbling can be heard two miles inland back at St Just, where we rejoin the bus.
The bus takes us on past Penzance and down to the Lizard. On first site it looks a bit of a trashy tourist spot with shops selling carved red and green stone objects - nearly all of which are round (as its easy to do on a lathe). Beyond, down at the Southern tip, there is a little cafe on the cliff edge. We arrive in time for last food orders, and take our seats by a low hedge protecting us from the drop. Whilst we eat, the sun sinks slowly over the vast expanse of sea, filling us with the warm glow that only a special moment can.
Its an early night for we have to catch the morning tide. Our destination is Kynance Cove. For most of the day its just rocks and a tiny patch of sand, but for a couple of hours each tide a series of stunning beaches are revealed. Its an hour long walk there along cliffs draped in a carpet of flowering hotentot figs.
The beach is freshly washed with not a footprint to be found. But hurry for soon it will be submerged, pushing us back to a little cafe overlooking the sands.
Back at Penzance the train awaits. Its an express service, but it still takes some time to reach the edge of Cornwall at Plymouth, crossing Brunel's stunning bridge into Devon. Our next stop is Ivybridge (not many trains stop here), where we can 'easily' climb up onto Dartmoor, taking in its vast empty landscape as we puff up the hill. Our hosts have arranged an overnight wild camp, close to an old stone circle and a trickling stream that is just a little too wide to jump over. The cold water is very soothing on the feet.
After a peaceful night under the stars and a hearty cooked breakfast in bed (well sleeping bag), we walk out several miles through country lanes to Totnes. At times we get amazing views across the fields below, like this one at a spot called Gingaford (written on a fingerpost sign surrounded by bluebells)...
From Totnes we take the boat down the river Dart, with comentary from the skipper. Its a slow boat, gently winding its way along the ria (a flooded river valley for those that weren't paying attention in geography) with wooded slopes on either side. By the time we reach Dartmouth we are totally relaxed.
We have the day at leisure in Dartmouth - plenty of time to hop across the river and back on any of the three regular ferries, or perhaps a walk out to Dartmouth castle and back. But we all end up back in the park, drinking tea and watching the world go by.
We cross the Dart one more time, and this time catch the steam train to Torquay. After a short rest on the beach we are off again, taking the regular train along the coast Eastwards to Teignmouth. Rather than rushing through this pretty section of coast, lets get off and explore further. Simply click or tap this painting to see something of Teignmouth, Dawlish and Shaldon.
If that seems too much, just stay on the train and we'll join you back on this page...
The train weaves through the red Devonian cliffs, then turns up the river Exe to Exeter, losing the red sands, but gaining green fields before the city hogs the view. It would be too easy to stay aboard and head straight for London, but instead lets change trains and explore a bit further East. The route weaves through the countryside, keeping away from the coast, so when we disembark at Honiton we need a local bus to reach the sea at Sidmouth. And here once again the red cliffs and sands dominate. We dodge the crowds on the busy front as our guide leads us up the cliff westward to some gardens and a tea room which serves some rather large portions of cake - and what is not to like about that!
We can work off that cake with a beer and a sit down, er I mean a walk to Beer and Seaton. And for more exercise still we can head through the wilderness of the landslips to emerge at Lyme Regis. It a deceptively long walk through what feels like the land that time forgot - all dense woods and big ferns, and a lot of tiring up and down on a twisting path. Whats that - you think you might take the bus?
Lyme of course is renowned for its fossils, but these are best found in the crumbly grey cliffs a little further along at Charmouth. Its also an historic town and fishing port that has appeared in many films. Want to hear more? Then
tap or click the picture to explore.
Now from Lyme we could easily take the bus back up the hill to Axminster (of carpet fame) to rejoin the London train, but that would be missing some more interesting places. So we hop on a bus to Bridport, and change for another that takes us through Abbotsbury and on to Weymouth, dumping us by the ornate clock.
We have a day to spend here, as there is much to explore in my paintings of
Weymouth. Click or tap to explore further.
Some may want to take the day at leisure in Weymouth, but for those with energy, there is a little train that can take us up to Bath for the day. Bath is well known for its hot Roman Baths and its world heritage Georgian architecture - which you are welcome to wander around. Just tap or click the picture or follow this link - Bath
Fancy a little bus trip from Bath? You could try Wells (as seen in Hot Fuzz), but I haven't painted there yet, or we could nip off to Frome. Its a delightful little town with two interesting little pedestrain streets. One winds up a hill, the other has a stream running through a channel down it. Both are lined with lovely little independent shops, like the baker's seen here. Its windows are stacked with the most delicious cakes, tarts and pastries. The only issue is what do you choose?
From too far off course, and Bath too busy? Well how about peaceful Bradford On Avon. You can walk through it before you realise you are in it! But it does have one very short pedestrain street, and on that street there is a teashop where you can get a really big bit of cake with your beverage. To walk it off head over to the tithe barn (which is very atmospheric inside) and continue along either the canal or the river. Walk far enough and you may just end up in Bath.
So not Bath or Frome or Bradford On Avon? Perhaps a trip to Bristol then. Its another stop on the train after Bath, and its a bustling vibrant sort of place with lots of interesting things to be found. My recommendation is to follow the water. It will take you past the now arty old dockyards, and Brunel's magnificent SS Great Britain, and on to another of his creations - the bridge across the Avon Gorge. The other side of the gorge is a busy main road, but this side its a pleasant walk along a wooded shore.
Our next stop is Poole. From there we could walk down to the quayside and take a boat across to Brownsea Island to see the red squirrels, but today its a bus taking us North for a cafe break at Wimborne Minster. Whilst there we have a little time to explore the town before heading back to Poole.
Another option at Poole is to get yourself to Sandbanks (where there are ridiculously expensive houses) and then wander along the beach to Bournemouth. Along the way there are several chines - which are little wooded valleys that go down to the sea. One of the first we come to is Canford Cliffs. Its only a small one, but its been filled with a pleasing arrangement of beach huts.
At Christchurch we follow the crowd into its historic centre. Around its prominent church we pass through a gap and out onto the Quomps - a waterside park. Its a Friday and the local art group have strapped their paintings to the bandstand for us to browse. At the far end where a holiday camp once stood, a little ferry takes us across to the quieter side of the river. We could lull on a bench or take tea in the extensive grounds of the hotel, but first a walk to whet our appetite. It takes us through a nature reserve of tall reeds puntuated by benches carved from large logs to show natural scenes. At the far end - a car park and bus stop, but also a myriad routes around and over Hengistbury Head to the iconic beach huts. Click or tap and you can explore them more.
This virtual tour comes to an end now, as after Hengistbury Head we come to the coast explored in my South Coast virtual tour. So everyone back to the station now for the slow train back to London Waterloo where you can tap or click on another journey...
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