Wales
And The English Border
It looks a long journey all across South Wales, but did I mention we are not going all the way. We first stop off at Cardiff for a local train that trundles up to Taffs Well. Its one of a number of trains departing platform six every few minutes. Getting off among busy roads you may think us mad, but have faith and follow us to the woods - its OK, honest! Sat among the trees in a sea of wild garlic flowers a Bavarian castle emerges like some ghostly apparition. Getting closer we realise it is real and solid. Inside it is most definitely Victorian and fabricated, and a popular spot for film-makers.
We walk back to Cardiff, following the Taff Trail, and the river Taff as children splash around in the water beside a small weir. Just beyond we reach a park, that steadily becomes more formal as we close in on the city centre. We missed the art gallery (worth a look) and we miss the castle which can be accessed only from a road full of tourist shops. A few roads on and we are back at the station, catching a train to Abergavenny with a hastily bought carved wooden love spoon in our luggage.
Arriving we spot what looks like a volcano behind the town, but is just Sugar Loaf - a fine hill, which we visit after a night at a local hotel. Our guides have organised a walk, taking us a quiet route to the summit of this popular peak, then over the back and across the ridge of Bryn Arw. And its here that we get this stunning Autumnal view. To follow the walk click or tap Brecon Beacons or the image below.
After refreshments in the vibrant little town, we board the train, crossing the border to visit Hereford. We stop here to see the Mappa Mundi in the cathedral. Its not the one in plain sight in the cathedral (thats a copy). The real one is behind a heavy velvet curtain in a darkened room, and well worth paying to see. You'll need about ten minutes standing in the room first, just to get accustomed to the low light, but then when we draw back the curtain the gold embellishments on this ancient map are overwhelmingly beautiful as they glow in the half light.
Few people get to see the real copy, and fewer still venture beyond to the chained library (included in the price). And it is quite a sight to see - row upon row of heavily bound old books chained individually to the bookshelves with heavy iron chains. We get asked what we would like to see, and one member of the party suggests something they saw in a Harry Potter film. The rest of us creep away pretending we aren't with them.
For those with the energy we have time for a little bus ride out to one of the villages on the 'black and white village trail'. We opt for Weobley, which is lovely, but very hard to get a good view of. So we settle for this painting from the far end of the village, where you can just make out the cottages by the church.
Next morning its back to the station, and a train further up the line to Church Stretton. There is an option for a walk over Long Mynd and on across the rocky crest of Stiperstones, but after yesterday's walk we opt for the shorter climb up Caer Caradoc. And here we get another fantastic view of hills and fields stretching to the horizon. And in case you were wondering what that big bump in the distance is - its 'The Wrekin' - a fine hill just outside of Ironbridge. But we'll leave that and the museums of industry there for another trip. The view to the South is stunning too, with the wooded ridge of Wenlock Edge, and the Clee Hills beyond. And across to the West (not painted yet) is Church Stretton and the Long Mynd.
Back to the train, and we change at Shrewsbury for another train that runs back South, splitting off near Stokesay Castle to run across Wale, to its old capital at Machynlleth and on up the coast all the way to Pwllheli. And then after that there is a bus! Our destination is Morfa Nefyn, and we arrive in the evening just in time for supper at the pub on the beach. The name draws a snigger from the party, but its simply Welsh for 'Red House'.
Afterwards its just about light enough to see our way along the network of deep cut paths and shrubbery tunnels that lead us there.
We stay at a nearby guest house.
Today we go on the tourist trail. Some of the party jump off the train to go and investigate Portmeirian, but the rest of us stay on a couple of stops to visit Harlech.
The castle is right by the station, but its perched high on a rock and the gate at the bottom is an exit. We climb the hill to the town, where a drawbridge gives a dramatic entrance, but then find we timed it wrong and the castle is closed for the day.
Never mind, we walk back down and wander among the sand dunes looking for the wide open beach. And thats where we get this view of the castle nestled in the landscape.
We return a few stops to Porthmadog, for the little steam train to Blaenau Ffestiniog. Its a strangely quiet place, surrounded by rock. Its everywhere from escarpments to piles left by the mining. The geologists in the party pick through some of the spoils, but find nothing of interest.
Leaving town, we head North for a walking traverse over one of the nearby mountains - Moel Siabod, where this rural view greets us on our descent to Capel Curig and the hostel. The house (not the hostel) is a ruin, slowly decaying high on the hillside.
Come the morning there is a lift to the station at Betws Y Coed and a now rather infrequent train to Conwy - so hurry along now. Its three hours to the next one.
Its late afternoon as we reach Conwy, and the low light skims the sand banks at low tide and adds a warm glow to the town, its walls, and the hill behind. An evening walk around the walls proves most enchanting, with a romantic full moon shimmering off the river nearby. But watch your step, its hard to see where we are walking, and no-one thought to bring a torch!
After a night at the hostel, there is time to look around the castle itself (out of view in this painting). It has lots of turrets to climb, each with a slightly different view. We manage all but one, where nesting seagulls aren't accepting visitors. Best not to argue.
A very short train ride, and we are in Llandudno. We could take a hike up the Great Orme, but its a very steep climb and we are feeling lazy today, so around the corner we enjoy the park and the rather ornate pier, finishing the detour with an ice cream from the kiosk. There is a gang of seagulls round here. The first swoops from behind over the right shoulder, so we snatch the ice cream down to our left. Before there is time to notice the parting in the swirl caused by its feet, another swoops from behind bottom left. Again we snatch it out of reach this time to bottom right, where behold - another gull launches its attack. They've learnt people's reactions and formed a very effective attack strategy, but they didn't get our ice cream. But then neither did we, as the cone broke and the cream ran down our hands. Meanwhile an old lady on a mobility scooter passes, chucking out breadcrumbs for the nice little birds.
Its not the best of memories to leave Wales by, so lets do one more little excursion. There is a bus at Rhyl that takes us down to Denbigh (where in winter you can freely walk around the castle ruin). After a night in a guest house we head for the Clwyddian Hills, that over a couple of days lead us down to a strange little place called Worlds End. Its dominated by a series of rounded cliffs over long scree slopes, all angled so the stream appears to be rising from a deep hollow and flowing uphill. Follow the cliffs South and we come to another odd place name - Panorama, but before that we turn off for the tourist hotspot of Llangollen. Its too late for the bus out, and so we spend the night at the hostel - a big old house that feels like a Cluedo set. There is no assaillant with a candlestick to be found in the billiard room, just a dribbly cat that goes straight for our nice warm laps when we sit.
We have a choice in the morning. The bus goes two ways. We can either head back into the mountains of Wales for and exploration around Bala, or we can go the other way to Wrexham to rejoin the train network.
If you take the Bala option, I must warn you its pretty tough going over rugged peaks and some dense vegetation between. It all starts rather well with a country lane and grassy slopes leading to a wild camp in the rocky cwm of Aran Fawddwy. We wake to rose streaked rock as the sun tries to get through, but alas, its a grey day as we walk the ridge South.
Our journey continues over quiet peaks through the heart of Wales, with a stop at Machynlleth for supplies before we tackle the grassy slopes of Penlummon (where the rivers Wye and Severn both start). Another wildcamp, and then its on across purple heather slopes buzzing with every kind of insect. So after several nights we emerge at Llanwrtyd Wells, where we pick up the train taken by the rest of the party.
For the less active in thr group it takes a couple of trains before the athletic ones rejoin us. And even then we have to change agin to finally reach Tenby. Its been a long journey, but well worth it, for Tenby is one of the most photogenic towns in Britain, and there is plenty of beach for those that like to be by the sea. Want to see more? Well tap or click to see my paintings of Tenby.
As this is a virtual tour, no expense has been spared in securing a room in one of the hotels overlooking the shore.
We have an extra day here with time to explore Caldey Island or walk the coast to Monkstone Bay, but you'll have to tap or click the painting to do so.
From Tenby we retrace our steps to St Clears station. It seems an odd place to leave the train, but we are soon aboard another, heading further west to Haverfordwest. And then further West still on a bus to St Davids, with its cathedral tucked away in a valley.
There are coaches disgorging tourists to look around the cathedral and the small shops and cafes nearby. If we walk straight past them we get to a view that they never see - from a country lane. It looks as though nothing has changed here in centuries.
If we keep walking, we can take a quiet coastal walk to Porth Mawr (Whitesands Bay) and the rugged peninsula beyond. Its quiet save for a cluster of surfers. And beyond is an even quieter little bay surrounded by acres of heather and a very large rock in the distance. If you can avoid the gorse and find the path its worth the climb for the panoramic view. Getting down again? Best to retrace your steps, then loop around the base to reach the youth hostel.
From St Davids there is only one way to go and that is back East. We take the train as far as Swansea, as there, there is one last place to visit, and that requires a walk across town to catch a bus to the Gower Peninsula. I'd love to share this beautiful place with you, but I have yet to paint it, so maybe next year.
That's just about introduced Wales and the borders in our brief journey. There is plenty more to explore, but for us its back from Swansea to London Paddington for another journey from the list below - just tap or click away...
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