Salisbury is a beautiful city straddling the rivers Nadder and Avon where they meet. The Avon is split into several channels, so wherever you go in this relaxing city you are never far from water. The city has a wealth of shops, cafes and of course the bustling
marketplace. And its full of historic buildings - its well worth looking up from the shop fronts...
Both routes take us to the corner of the marketplace. If its Tuesday or Saturday there is a bustling market. And in one corner we find this almost continental cafe scene under a row of London plane trees (painted in 2021, improved in 2023). Want to see some more? Then you need to pop into my
Salisbury Market page.
At another corner of the marketplace we can see a distinctive line of buildings, including one on the end that looks top heavy. The low winter sun is bouncing off their windows, creating odd patches of light on the road below.
Behind the market pubs there is a narrow pedestrian street with various shops and a bustling crowd of shoppers. There is time to stop and eat a Wiltshire pasty (very like a Cornish one but crimped on the top) bought at the bakers, before continuing. Opposite the tourist information there is a an old butchers - worth a painting in itself - a future subject perhaps.
We come to a cross roads now. Left past Nando's for a detour to visit one of the oldest buildings in Salisbury - a Coaching Inn built in the 13th century for those building the cathedral. There is not much clue outside apart from a large ornate iron sign 'Red Lion', but walk through the arch and take in the courtyard, with its colourful vine (here on a wet summer's day) creating its own little world. Time for another tea and cake. Return in Autumn for a full does of vibrant colour.
This is the edge of the older part of Salisbury, and if you wander the grid of streets you come across lots of interesting buildings. After a bit of a meander, head South and with luck you'll pop out at St Ann's Street to get this magnificent view of the cathedral. Regrettably you are then dumped onto a busy road, but bear with me. Keep going South, and follow the underpass below the roundabout to emerge in a city park. It feels a bit neglected, but it does have a nice walk along the river. Which leads to another underpass and a back gate to the cathedral close.
Walking around the cathedral there are lots of photo opportunities, and if its low winter light the sun shines right through the building bringing the stained glass to life (as seen from outside on the North side) (note to self - one to paint). Out through the main gate, and we are in a bustling shopping, centre. Head right under the tudor beams and left before M&S and we pop out on another busy road. Follow it right and we come to this little gem of a building...
No trip to Salisbury would be complete without at least a look at the cathedral as Constable saw it. So we retrace our steps through the shopping precinct and back to the cross roads outside the main gate. But instead of going through, we head right, and then follow the path around the park for a view of the back of Edward Heath's house (now a museum). Follow the water and we come to a bridge, which leads us to the water meadows and plenty of views of the cathedral. From this angle you would never realise its the 21st century and there is a city all around us.
The path crosses the water meadows, which have remained undeveloped - and for good reason. Its not about preserving views but about the flooding that occurs every so often after a lot of rain. So here is that view again, in winter with the meadows flooded (and on this occasion the path too).
Back across the water meadows, over the bridge and turn left. A few minutes later and we are back at the station where we can rejoin the virtual tour of the South Coast.
Prints of all my Salisbury paintings (and a specially designed mug) can be found at Redbubble.com
Get a printable version of this trail, and use it to explore the city and the views I've painted. Its completely FREE so long as its not for profit. The latest version is a 13.9Mb PDF with market paintings on the back.