Salisbury

Salisbury

Salisbury is a beautiful city straddling the rivers Nadder and Avon where they meet.  The Avon is split into several channels, so wherever you go in this relaxing city you are never far from water.  The city has a wealth of shops, cafes and of course the bustling marketplace.  And its full of historic buildings - its well worth looking up from the shop fronts...

Starting from the station, the easiest option is to follow the crowd downhill and right.  We could stop off for a look around Fisherton Mill for its art (and a little tea and cake in a historic setting), or carry on until we see a path leading left alongside a millstream.  It takes us to The Maltings.  Which way now? Left to the church, and a passage to the left; or right to a covered passage passing the library?
The Maltings II

Both routes take us to the corner of the marketplace. If its Tuesday or Saturday there is a bustling market. And in one corner we find this almost continental cafe scene under a row of London plane trees (painted in 2021, improved in 2023).  Want to see some more?  Then you need to pop into my Salisbury Market page.

Salisbury Cafe

At another corner of the marketplace we can see a distinctive line of buildings, including one on the end that looks top heavy.  The low winter sun is bouncing off their windows, creating odd patches of light on the road below.

Blue Boar Row

Behind the market pubs there is a narrow pedestrian street with various shops and a bustling crowd of shoppers.  There is time to stop and eat a Wiltshire pasty (very like a Cornish one but crimped on the top) bought at the bakers, before continuing.  Opposite the tourist information there is a an old butchers - worth a painting in itself - a future subject perhaps.

Rainy Day

We come to a cross roads now.  Left past Nando's for a detour to visit one of the oldest buildings in Salisbury - a Coaching Inn built in the 13th century for those building the cathedral.  There is not much clue outside apart from a large ornate iron sign 'Red Lion', but walk through the arch and take in the courtyard, with its colourful vine (here on a wet summer's day) creating its own little world.  Time for another tea and cake.  Return in Autumn for a full does of vibrant colour.

Red Lion

This is the edge of the older part of Salisbury, and if you wander the grid of streets you come across lots of interesting buildings.  After a bit of a meander, head South and with luck you'll pop out at St Ann's Street to get this magnificent view of the cathedral.  Regrettably you are then dumped onto a busy road, but bear with me.  Keep going South, and follow the underpass below the roundabout to emerge in a city park.  It feels a bit neglected, but it does have a nice walk along the river.  Which leads to another underpass and a back gate to the cathedral close.

Salisbury Cathedral

Walking around the cathedral there are lots of photo opportunities, and if its low winter light the sun shines right through the building bringing the stained glass to life (as seen from outside on the North side) (note to self - one to paint).  Out through the main gate, and we are in a bustling shopping, centre.  Head right under the tudor beams and left before M&S and we pop out on another busy road.  Follow it right and we come to this little gem of a building...

It is the cinema, and on a sunny winter's day the low sun bounces off a wall opposite and illuminates all the little panes of leaded glass, with spectacular effect.  Parts of the building date back to 1470, including the large stone fireplace in the lobby.  The facade is mock Tudor from 1834.

Cinema

No trip to Salisbury would be complete without at least a look at the cathedral as Constable saw it.  So we retrace our steps through the shopping precinct and back to the cross roads outside the main gate.  But instead of going through, we head right, and then follow the path around the park for a view of the back of Edward Heath's house (now a museum).  Follow the water and we come to a bridge, which leads us to the water meadows and plenty of views of the cathedral.  From this angle you would never realise its the 21st century and there is a city all around us.

Cathedral

The path crosses the water meadows, which have remained undeveloped - and for good reason.  Its not about preserving views but about the flooding that occurs every so often after a lot of rain. So here is that view again, in winter with the meadows flooded (and on this occasion the path too).

Salisbury flood
Carry on along the path for another treat awaits.  At the far end of the water meadows we reach Harnham Mill.  Built in the 12th century and once a paper mill, its a hotel today.  The benches outside are a suntrap and a lovely spot for a well earned pint after all that walking.  There is also a beer garden out the back with water flowing both sides, but then you might find you need the toilet sooner!
Harnham Mill

Back across the water meadows, over the bridge and turn left.  A few minutes later and we are back at the station where we can rejoin the virtual tour of the South Coast.

Prints of all my Salisbury paintings (and a specially designed mug) can be found at Redbubble.com

A map to help you explore

Get a printable version of this trail, and use it to explore the city and the views I've painted.  Its completely FREE so long as its not for profit.  The latest version is a 13.9Mb PDF with market paintings on the back.


download FREE trail
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