Yorkshire Dales

Yorkshire Dales

Many say the Lake District has the best scenery in England, but I've always preferred the Yorkshire Dales and Vale Of Eden.  Allow me to show you some of its best bits captured in my paintings...

We start by leaving the train at Ilkley for a multi day hike up Wharfedale.  It starts quite broad, but it soon starts to get interesting.  We pass the ruins of Bolton Abbey.  The narrow slot of the Strid tempts us to jump the river, but many have come to harm trying.  Its such a tranquil spot too.  Today the water is flowing gently, leaving a winding trail of floating debris as it exits the Strid.

Exit the Strid

Further up we come to the chocolate box village of Grassington, followed by the dramatic overhang of Kilnsey crag with its dangling climbers.  And then to Kettlewell for an overnight at the hostel.  Its a light evening and we just have time to climb Great Whernside for this view back down to the village.  And no that is not the sky, but the sunlight striking the ridges of the hill opposite!

Above Kettlewell
As we head further up the valley it becomes quieter - less people, less traffic, and gentler hills.  As we reach the upper reaches the dale opens out to this idyllic little spot where the river is easily accessed.
Upper Wharfedale painted in oil by Richard Paul
From upper Wharfedale we climb over moorland to Hawes and a chance to look around the Wensleydale cheese factory.  Wenselydale is a rather broad dale, but if we cross over the moorland to the North we reach the quieter surrounds of Swaledale.  Parts of Swaledale are scarred by old lead mining works, but we easily find this rural view of fields and stone walls just to the West of Reeth.
Swaledale
The further we head up Swaledale the more intimate the valley gets and the more stunning the scenery becomes.  Once we pass the last of the lead mining ruins and reach the village of Muker, it reaches a climax of beauty.  And just a short walk further on we have food and shelter for the night at Keld, but regrettably no beer as its a dry village.
Upper Swaledale
We leave Swaledale by following the coast to coast path over Nine Standards Rigg.  Its a very boggy traverse, but after negotiating the mother of all peat canyons we cross the top and descend to Kirkby Stephen.  Its early, so we take a bus up the valley to Appleby, then walk to Dufton for an ascent of Knock Fell.  Its a snowy day, and the access road makes for an easy descent to Knock.  All too soon we are back in Dufton for a night at the hostel.
Descent from Knock Fell
 
Next morning we wake to see sheep being herded across the village green.  After breakfast we walk through a strange little gorge where the stream sometimes runs above the path and the rocks are festooned with vibrant mosses.  It takes us to the road to Appleby, where we catch the train one stop to Kirkby Stephen.  Not far from the station the ruins of Pendragon castle beckon.  Had this been down South there would be a kiosk to pay to enter, roped off areas of 'danger' and various interpretation boards around the site, but here there is just a field of cows and a healthy crop of nettles guarding the site.
Pendragon Castle
West from the castle we come to the grassy pillows of the Howgills.  They are a delight to walk, and the sun stays with us the whole time, which is more than can be said for the hills and dales back East, so we wait it out with an overnight in Sedbergh.  Next morning its bright again and fine for a walk across to Dentdale and a well earned pint at the Sun Inn.  Beyond, we branch off up Deep Dale, and climb Whernside from its quieter side, before joining the throng of Yorkshire Three Peakers heading for Ingleborough and across the limestone pavement to Horton in Ribblesdale.  If you've still got energy I can recommend the walk up Pen-Y-Ghent (the most dramatic of the three peaks) and return via Hull Pot, but don't be too long there is a train to catch.
Sedbergh

 

That's it for the Yorkshire Dales and Vale Of Eden for now, but I'll be adding more detail as I add more paintings of the area.

Share by: